Saving Grease & Forgetting Graces

When I moved to Toronto Dundas West was a desolate strip, with a few Portuguese bakeries, but few noteworthy restaurants. One of the few saving graces for the brunch inclined on a Sunday stroll was the salivation inducing Saving Grace. For the last ten years Saving Grace has been fostering line-ups so long that a waitlist needed to be implemented.

I vividly remember my first brunch experience there. Polenta waffles, served with a sweet and zesty lime sour cream and a pomegranate coulis. As far as brunch goes, I would definitely put myself down as a savory savourer– I typically find pancakes too flat, and waffles too cloying. But these waffles were perfect. Five years ago everything about Saving Grace seemed perfect—from the eclectic details such as the vintage collection of sugar spoons and salt & pepper shakers, to the small dining space that fostered an intimate environment and amplified the exotic aromas of India that mingled o so well with the smell of freshly fried eggs and bacon.

click to enlarge

I will not criticize a restaurant for their wait; popularity should never result in condemnation. I will, however, say that after a lengthy wait good service would remedy any ill feelings resulting from low blood sugar. Though the room was small the single server seemed incapable of effectively managing her tables. Coffee cups longed to be filled, and her attentions were very divided. Poor, overextended service has been a long-standing problem at Saving Grace. For a venue that is nearly constantly packed to the gills, it is about time that they step up their service. A customer should not feel as though asking for condiments or a refill is a burden.

Now maybe I’ve become jaded, or maybe just spoiled, but on my last visit to Saving Grace I felt as though they had lost their spark. Perhaps Saving Grace’s popularity has led to a bit of culinary laziness on their part. It seemed to me that Saving Grace was lacking grace and serving up grease.

The French toast with a coconut-walnut praline (9$) was tasty if a forkful managed to combine the dish’s different elements, but it was nothing to mmmm at. The presentation was lack luster; in fact, I would go as far as to say the presentation was unappetizing. The dish lacked colour and looked as though the chef poured some granola on some slices of well-greased baguette.

I would like to say that the under delivery on the French toast special was a one off, but their standard French toast with caramelized onions, apples, and emmental cheese was also lacking luster (8.75$). It had all the right ingredients, but failed in the delivery. The bread was under egged and over greased. The caramelized onions were more sautéed than caramelized, and the apple slices were undercooked and too thickly sliced. With a few tweaks this dish could have been fantastic.

The Rajistani eggs (9$) are a great Saving Grace classic that combines Indian flavours with a brunch classic: scrambled eggs. The scrambled eggs are served with spicy red onions, chickpea masala, and a spicy paratha (a flat bread similar to a chapatti). Similar to the coconut French toast, this dish finds its own when you manage to take a bite that combines all the flavours of the dish together. I would not recommend this the Rajistani eggs for a stomach that’s ailing from a hangover.

Ultimately, a decent brunch with innovative combinations inspired from unusual sources. A long wait. Poor service. Good ambience.

SERVICE 2½/5
AMBIANCE 4/5
PRESENTATION 3/5
TASTE 3½/5
PRICE $$
HOURS Monday to Friday  9:00am – 3:00pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Saturdays and Sundays, 10:00am – 3:00pm.
LOCATION, LOCATION 907 Dundas Street West

 

 

Great Eggspectations

Now that you know how to choose fresh from foul eggs, you need to learn the tricks of preparing the perfect egg.

boiling egg

Boiling eggs is a tried, tested, and true method of cooking eggs and perhaps the most elementary way to prepare proto-fowl, but even something as simple as boiling an egg can be complicated—eggs crack, they over cook, they undercook, and they get discoloured. This quick and elementary guide will provide you with tips and techniques for faultless eggs every time.

Soft-boiled

runny soft-boiled egg

Soft-boiled eggs are a difficult to time perfectly. This is complicated by the fact that not everybody’s idea of what exactly constitutes a soft-boiled egg synchs up.

Wait till the water comes to a boil, and then turn the water down to a simmer; too roaring a boil and your egg might get cracked on the bottom of the pan. Cradle your egg in a spoon and sink it down to the bottom of the pan. Just dropping your egg into the pan nearly guarantees a crack.

Generic soft boiling times

• For a medium sized egg: 3 minutes for runny; 5 minutes for a medium-boiled egg (the yolk runs a bit in the centre, but everything else is pretty much solid). For large eggs add one minute to these cooking times, and for extra large eggs add one more minute to the cooking times.

medium soft-boiled egg

Plunge the egg into cold water after removing it from the pan. This will stop the cooking process and keep the egg at your desired runniness.

Hard boiled

Unlike soft-boiled, the timing with hardboiled eggs is a little more flexible. Thus, if you are in a rush, you don’t have to wait for pot to come to a boil before plunging the egg into the watery depths (just add a 3 minutes to the cooking time). Once the water is boiling, reduce your heat to simmer, again insuring your precious cargo doesn’t crack.

• Boil your egg for 10-12 minutes (judge based on sized).

Once the eggs are boiled submerge them into a cold bath promptly. But why you ask? Boiled eggs can’t over cook can they? Well, not in the same way that soft-boiled eggs can overcook, but the eggs can develop dark green rings around the yolks if cooked on too high of a temperature or cooked for too long.

overcooked franken-egg

What are those dark green rings that appear around yolks? When eggs are overcooked, cooked at too high a temperature, or the cooking water is iron rich, then a green ring appears around the yolk. This green ring is a manifestation of the iron and sulfur compounds in the egg. It doesn’t affect the taste, but it’s unsightly for some egg dishes, and over cooking does compromise the integrity of the egg’s protein. Ultimately, it’s just not optimal.

So, what if my egg did crack, do I need to start over? Nope, if there’s a small crack on your egg just add a little vinegar to the cooking water. Vinegar prevents the egg white from seeping out of the egg. A common reason eggs crack is due to heat expansion. Rather than throwing your fridge cold eggs in a pot of boiling water, warm them up a bit! By placing your eggs in warm water for a few minutes while the water is coming to a boil you will insure crack free eggs (nearly) every time.

Is there ever a time I should crack my eggs? Some people like to put a small puncture with the tip of a knife into the air cell of the egg to reduce the likelihood of cracking. I think this is nonsense and leads to more cracked eggs and undesired omelets than necessary. There is one time that cracking your egg is essential: before allowing your hard boiled eggs to cool in a bath of cold water. Cracking the egg before cooling it will make future peeling a breeze.

Eggsposé: Deciphering Egg Cipher

Eggs are fantastic. They’re so multifaceted. They can be beaten, boiled, fried, scrambled, baked, sweet, or salty, and they’re integral to so many different and delicious dishes from soufflés to flaeskeaeggekage (the Danish bacon and egg cake). Eggs are great for a healthy satisfying meal that’s quick and wallet friendly, but they’re a little secretive. How can you tell when an egg is fresh? You can’t squeeze it like a tomato, or smell it like a fish. This article will help you decipher egg cipher.

How do you tell if an egg’s fresh? Old eggs have a smooth and shiny shell, that when hard-boiled is easy to remove, while fresh eggs have a rough and chalky shell that is, you guessed it, harder to remove when hardboiled. If texture is not a clear enough indicator, there is an easy way to test the freshness of your egg.

• Fill up a bowl, or glass, with cool water. The water level should be at least three times as high as your egg is tall.
• Place your egg in the water and wait while the egg settles.
• Observe your results: the fresher your egg, the deeper in the water it will settle. A very fresh egg will settle on the bottom and lay on its side. A moderately old, but still edible, egg will lie on the bottom balancing on its smallest tip. If your egg floats to the surface then it is no longer edible and should be thrown away.

The reason this trick works is that as an egg ages it absorbs air that causes the cell expands. Thus, the older the egg is the higher it will float when submerged in water. It’s like there’s a tiny balloon in the egg, that grows in girth with every passing day. If you want to slow down the egg aging process it is best to keep your eggs dirty. I know that sounds strange, but by washing the egg you remove their protective coating; without their film of dirt the eggs will spoil faster and absorb fridge odors.

Is the colour of the yoke an indication of freshness? No, it’s not. The colour of an egg yolk reflects the chicken’s diet and has nothing to do with freshness. The yellow colour is the result of the chicken eating foods high in xanthophylls (this fancy chemical is what makes leaves turn pretty colours in fall). Chickens that eat barley or wheat have lighter yolks, whereas chickens that dine on corn or alfalfa yield medium yellow yolks. Some farmers will even feed their chickens marigolds, or other orange plant matter, to induce that bright orange yolk colour associated with free range eggs.

What are those weird red spots in the egg? When I was little my friend Jordan and I tried to hatch a clutch of chicken eggs, and so we made a nest out of old clothes and placed the eggs next to the radiator to keep them warm. I think we might of even tried sitting, ever so delicately, on the makeshift nest; however, after about a week her older sister kyboshed the eggsperiment. Jordan and I were particularly distraught because in one of the eggs there was a large red spot that looked like an embryo about to take on life.

Later I discovered that the embryo in question, referred to by ovologis, and internet eggsperts, as a blood spot, did not signify fertilization. Blood spots are caused by a ruptured blood vessel during the formation of the egg; they do not indicate that the egg is fetid. In fact, the their presence denotes freshness, because blood spots dilute as the egg ages.

What about those rope-like strands of egg white? What’s their deal? Those are called chalazae, and they help to keep the yolk of an egg centered. By keeping the yolk suspended the chalazae protect the yolk from damage insuring better embryonic development. Chalazae are also indicator of freshness—the more prominent they are the fresher the egg. If you are really bothered by them you can remove them with the tip of a knife or with tweezers (blood spots can also be removed this way).

Are brown eggs more nutritious than white eggs? Neither brown nor white eggs are any better than the other. A chicken with red earlobes will lay a brown egg, whereas a chicken with white earlobes will lay a white egg. The colour of an egg has no impact on taste or nutrition– the differences are purely cosmetic.

So, to recap…

This is how to tell if an egg is fresh

1. Rough, chalky shell
2. Sinks when placed in a bowl of cold water
3. Has red spots
4. Has white ropey strands

In the next tips segment I’ll give you tips for perfect eggs every time. Stay tuned.

Joyous Redemption

Joy’s a dinner disaster, but they shine when it comes to brunch.

Joy Bistro is an east side behemoth with two patios and two floors. I recommend, weather and warmth permitting, B side patio.  B side gets great sun, and has a warm Mediterranean ambience with its terracotta stucco walls and wooden patio furniture. In winter and rainy weather, Over Joy, their upstairs indoor option, is also a very good second. Over Joy is bright, elegant, and open, with a great view of Queen St. E.

Brunch seems to be quickly becoming the popular meal of the twenty something. It’s affordable, it’s plentiful, and at a decent hour leaving the rest of the day  open for whatever Sunday whims tickle you. And Joy Bistro is worthy of your precious early Sunday afternoon, especially if you can snag a sun soaked spot on B side by their fire pit.

At Joy brunch, coffee and tip will run you about 15$. The selection isn’t anything out of the ordinary, but they have a healthy selection of bennies (10-13$) and sandwiches (for the more lunch inclined 9$). And their Dutch oven pancakes will fill any belly (8$).  The coffee is unending, always a plus on a Sunday morning, although it is weak, and waving down a busy waitress can be difficult.

I recommend their Rowe Farms Steak and Eggs (14$). Rowe farms provide local, conscientiously farmed, meat, so you can rationalize the cost. It comes served with two eggs, any style, home fries and toast. I had my eggs poached, and they were perfectly runny. And the meat was done rare, like I asked for, although it was a touch on the cold side when it arrived at the table. The home fries were crispy, and they were interestingly seasoned. If you are watching your wallet this week they offer many traditional breakfast items for less than 10$.

Service is never spectacular, but that is mainly due to how crowded Joy Bistro is for brunch.

Ultimately, Joy Bistro succeeds when it focuses on simplicity and quality. The problem with Joy is that there is just too much, too many patios, too many rooms, and too many flavours. They seem to like juggling a lot, but when they concentrate on one thing, like good traditional brunch fare, they succeed.

SERVICE 3/5
AMBIANCE 4/5 (4/5 for B side patio, 3.5/5 for Over Joy)
PRESENTATION 3/5
TASTE 3.5/5
PRICE $$
HOURS Open seven days a week from 11:30am on. Dinner service begins at 5pm. Brunch is served from 8am-4pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
LOCATION, LOCATION 884 Queen Street East