Saving Grease & Forgetting Graces

When I moved to Toronto Dundas West was a desolate strip, with a few Portuguese bakeries, but few noteworthy restaurants. One of the few saving graces for the brunch inclined on a Sunday stroll was the salivation inducing Saving Grace. For the last ten years Saving Grace has been fostering line-ups so long that a waitlist needed to be implemented.

I vividly remember my first brunch experience there. Polenta waffles, served with a sweet and zesty lime sour cream and a pomegranate coulis. As far as brunch goes, I would definitely put myself down as a savory savourer– I typically find pancakes too flat, and waffles too cloying. But these waffles were perfect. Five years ago everything about Saving Grace seemed perfect—from the eclectic details such as the vintage collection of sugar spoons and salt & pepper shakers, to the small dining space that fostered an intimate environment and amplified the exotic aromas of India that mingled o so well with the smell of freshly fried eggs and bacon.

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I will not criticize a restaurant for their wait; popularity should never result in condemnation. I will, however, say that after a lengthy wait good service would remedy any ill feelings resulting from low blood sugar. Though the room was small the single server seemed incapable of effectively managing her tables. Coffee cups longed to be filled, and her attentions were very divided. Poor, overextended service has been a long-standing problem at Saving Grace. For a venue that is nearly constantly packed to the gills, it is about time that they step up their service. A customer should not feel as though asking for condiments or a refill is a burden.

Now maybe I’ve become jaded, or maybe just spoiled, but on my last visit to Saving Grace I felt as though they had lost their spark. Perhaps Saving Grace’s popularity has led to a bit of culinary laziness on their part. It seemed to me that Saving Grace was lacking grace and serving up grease.

The French toast with a coconut-walnut praline (9$) was tasty if a forkful managed to combine the dish’s different elements, but it was nothing to mmmm at. The presentation was lack luster; in fact, I would go as far as to say the presentation was unappetizing. The dish lacked colour and looked as though the chef poured some granola on some slices of well-greased baguette.

I would like to say that the under delivery on the French toast special was a one off, but their standard French toast with caramelized onions, apples, and emmental cheese was also lacking luster (8.75$). It had all the right ingredients, but failed in the delivery. The bread was under egged and over greased. The caramelized onions were more sautéed than caramelized, and the apple slices were undercooked and too thickly sliced. With a few tweaks this dish could have been fantastic.

The Rajistani eggs (9$) are a great Saving Grace classic that combines Indian flavours with a brunch classic: scrambled eggs. The scrambled eggs are served with spicy red onions, chickpea masala, and a spicy paratha (a flat bread similar to a chapatti). Similar to the coconut French toast, this dish finds its own when you manage to take a bite that combines all the flavours of the dish together. I would not recommend this the Rajistani eggs for a stomach that’s ailing from a hangover.

Ultimately, a decent brunch with innovative combinations inspired from unusual sources. A long wait. Poor service. Good ambience.

SERVICE 2½/5
AMBIANCE 4/5
PRESENTATION 3/5
TASTE 3½/5
PRICE $$
HOURS Monday to Friday  9:00am – 3:00pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Saturdays and Sundays, 10:00am – 3:00pm.
LOCATION, LOCATION 907 Dundas Street West

 

 

Bonjour Brioche

Unfinished wood floors, a Provencal palette of yellow and blue, and the aroma of freshly baked bread culminates into a meal length vacation to St. Tropez. Bonjour Brioche is cozy when half full, but becomes claustrophobic at capacity. During peak hours expect line-ups and a lapse in service quality that is compensated for by the quality of the food. Perennial favourites include the decadent baked French toast, marbled with cinnamon and caramelized sugar, served with fresh fruit and maple syrup (8.50$); quiche Lorraine that’s light, yet creamy, and served with salad in basil vinaigrette and a portion of dream worthy baguette (8.75$); perfectly succulent scrambled eggs served on a potato rosti are adorned by a modest portion of smoked salmon and caviar, and garnished with horseradish and chives (10.00$). Drip coffee is unending, but often watery, lukewarm, and hard to flag down.

Brunch mains are all under 10$, and unaccompanied sandwiches hover around 7$. While the sandwiches on the fixed menu are cheap, I often find they’re underdressed, i.e. just roast beef and brie– I demand vegetables in my sandwich, even if it’s just a few tomatoes and a sprinkling of salad greens. But, if spartan sandwiches are your thing, you may just fall in love with their Jambon Buerre sandwich: prosciutto with butter on a baguette for 6.50$. Also at 7$ is their fantastic, and figure friendly, homemade granola served with yoghurt and a fresh fruit salad.

If you are on a tight budget I would suggest staying to the fixed menu, as daily specials are typically more expensive at around 15$. Through experience, I have also found that the daily specials can be hit or miss, although the daily sandwich is almost always safe bet.

SERVICE 2½/5 — service on weekends is significantly worse than on weekdays. It’s not unheard of to sit down and be professionally ignored for  a quarter hour. This, however, has only happened to me once. On off-peak hours the service can be acceptable, but never astounding.
AMBIANCE 4/5
PRESENTATION 4/5
TASTE 5/5
PRICE $-$$
HOURS Tuesday to Sunday 8 am to 4 pm
LOCATION, LOCATION 812 Queen Street East
NOTEWORTHY No reservations and cash ONLY, no plastic

[Originally written for Toronto Life internship application.]

Not So Pour Boy

If you are feeling strapped for cash, but not willing to venture of to the periphery of Toronto to imbibe at moderate prices, think Pour Boy for the poor boy. Located at Manning and Bloor, the Pour Boy Pub is a snug, two story, bar that offers Greenroom reminiscent fare, and prices well below the Bloor average.

The bar is hard to miss, decorated with a giant mural of Hendrix and Dylan; it brings some great colour to the Bloor landscape. Inside, the decor is hippie grandmother’s dining room meets new age Buddhist.

The servers are very friendly and attentive, when they can be, but when this place reaches capacity it can be difficult to wave down a server, regardless of the full bar on each floor. The issue I had with their ambience was the music— while the music was a fun mix of well, and not so well known oldies, it was painfully loud depending on the track.

Their daily beer special, Pour Boy Choice, will run you less than 12$ a pitcher, 4 $ a pint (typically something like Pabst or Amsterdam).  Their other beer selections will run you 13.25$ a pitcher. The selection isn’t prolific, typical Ontario beer fare, but they do have Blanche de Chambly and Sapporo on tap for those feeling adventurous.

Pour Boy’s food is also incredibly affordable, with healthy portioned mains averaging 7$. Whatever cuisine whets your appetite Pour Boy has something to sate it—from pan Asian standards, to polish perogies, with salads, sandwiches and burgers in between.  Their Pad Thai was possibly one of the best I’ve tasted in Toronto in recent years. Their salads aren’t whelming, and their sandwiches are easily recreated at home, but if you stick to bar standards (anything with cheese and/or fried), and the pan Asian dishes, you’ll really feel like you’re living gourmet on a dime.

SERVICE 4/5
AMBIENCE 3/5
PRESENTATION 3/5
TASTE 3½/5
PRICE $
HOURS 10:30 am- 2 am, kitchen open late
LOCATION, LOCATION 666 Manning Street
NOTEWORTHY

• EVENTS
• Sunday Afternoon: 4pm – 8pm – Open Mic
• Sunday Evenings: 9pm – 2am – DJ UpBeatz (Hip Hop, Funk, Soul and House)
• Monday Nights: 8pm – Quiz Night